Thep Phanom

Patricia Unterman’s San Francisco Food Lover’s Guide hasn’t disappointed me once yet. I’ve claimed Scott’s book as my own and it lives on my nightstand, providing me with bedtime stories of brioche bread pudding and perfectly braised pork. So, when Mo suggested that I choose a Thai restaurant for what would be our last meal together before he heads off for Seattle, I referred to my dining Bible and found Thep Phanom.

Thep Phanom sits in an old Victorian at the corner of Waller and Fillmore. We walked from my place, past the subsidized housing, men drinking on the streets, and smells of smoke and old alcohol, to enter the cozy space decorated with Thai artifacts and with a wait staff dressed in what I assumed to be traditional Thai garb. It was an elegant surprise in a neighborhood that I doubt would ever be described as such.

The menu was extensive and Mo was delighted by the vegetarian options. We started with the crispy tofu with peanut sauce and cucumber salad. The triangles of tofu were golden brown and incredible. They crunched as we bit through the crusty exterior to reveal a steamy, soft, white inside. The peanut dipping sauce was creamy and not too fishy as peanut sauces can be. And the small rounds of cucumber were crunchy in a light vinegar dressing.

Mo ordered the crispy fried Portobello mushroom with braised eggplant after passing up the “Thaitanic” tofu. It came with more fried tofu and a basil sauce. The dish was a brilliant blend of flavors and texture. The eggplant was smushy, the tofu crisp, and the mushroom a mix of both as the crispy fried batter encapsulated a tender mushroom chunk. And, the lightest tinge of spiciness crept up slowly and grew steadily.

I had one of the Sunday specials, the crispy fried filet of duck breast (they seem to enjoy frying foods crisply) with steamed vegetables and topped with peanut sauce. The duck was indeed crisply fried, a little crunch and then a little chew. It was good, but I don’t know why it was so special.

Their dessert menu was rather impressive for a Thai restaurant. Mo ordered the fried bananas, which were made with fragrantly sweet bananas in a batter that was light and airy, just like the perfect cake doughnut. And, I had the Kahlua crème brulee, whose caramelized sugar top could have come closer to the hard crack stage and the custard itself a little more creamy.